My Favorite Art in Russia

I just returned from an amazing trip to Russia. We spent 7 full days in the country, visiting first St. Petersburg and then Moscow. I had my camera glued to my hip the entire time, so I've got the photographic proof of many of my observations, which will take up the next few posts.

Part of almost every single day was devoted to a visit to one of the country's art museums and national galleries. The amount of art is simply staggering, your legs grow exhausted just walking around. It's roughly divided between 3 major categories, medieval religious icons, socialist realist paintings, and 18th century french/western european paintings. Strangely there is barely any socialist constructionist work, I found Kazimir Malevich's "Red Square" poorly lit down a barely frequented hallway.

Of the three categories of art displayed in all of the museums, I enjoyed the 18th and early 19th century western european paintings most. Generally from the Impressionist and Fauvist schools I saw a staggering number of Cezanne, Matisse, Van Gogh, Picasso, Gauguin even an exquisite Ingres facing off against a Delacroix. I'm not sure that Paris can even boast quite so extensive collections (although they surely have better quality).

In fact this comparison is not a frivolous one; many of the works curren

tly on display in Russia were undoubtedly of Parisian origin: the collections contain many 'spoils of war' seized from Nazi troops, who in turn had seized them from their rightful owners. Of course, not all of the collections are the fruits of pillage; Matisse had a long relationship with Sergei Shchukin his Russian patron, who I recall originally balked at "Dance I" (luckily he reconsidered).

In fact, I saw so much Matisse that it catapulted him into the running for my favorite artist.